Inverie, Knoydart

Friday 11th June 2010

I woke to a rather damp morning, but that didn't deter me - I was determined to make that trip to Inverie. As I was staying in the Lochcarron area, I had quite a long drive to catch the Armadale to Mallaig ferry, so an early start was essential.

The last time I had visited Inverie was around 30 years previously with my parents. My memories of that trip are somewhat cloudy; my main recollection being the excitement of the boat trip itself as opposed to the destination. Natural enough I suppose - I neither had the wisdom nor the maturity at that age to truly appreciate what I had been introduced to. One thing I do remember though is being lifted ashore, as I was too small to bridge the gap between the boat and the pier!

Anyway, 30 years later and things are different. I have inherited my father and my paternal grandmother's love of wild places - known within my family as the hereditary "wandering bug," and of course, the camera and my love of photography has become an intrinsic part of this.

I arrived in Mallaig with plenty of time to spare before catching Bruce Watt's boat to Inverie. Bruce took over the running of the boat from his father in 1974, and his excursions are extremely popular with walkers, birdwatchers and tourists alike. The journey over took around 40 minutes, and despite the persistent drizzle, the sea was calm. As Inverie grew ever closer, vague recollections of my first visit 30 years previously filtered through my mind. There was something oddly familiar about the deciduous woodland which served as a backdrop to the row of little white cottages strung along the shore. After landing, I immediately set off on foot with my camera in tow to explore the village and surroundings. The drizzle only persisted for around 10 minutes after our arrival, it was as if my prayers had been answered and I had been granted a reprieve from the rain. I managed to shoot around three black and white films - more than I had dared hope for. I will hopefully soon put the results of my labour on my website - fingers crossed that the films have some decent images on them!

Inverie itself is situated on the north side of Loch Nevis. It currently has a population of around 60 permanent residents. It's remoteness is largely due to the fact that there is no motorised road access - the only access is either by boat, or for the more intrepid traveller, a 20 mile hike! Despite it's remoteness, Inverie has a true sense of community - something that has now sadly become somewhat of an alien concept in many rural villages across the UK. It boasts a village shop, school, pub and campsite. The Forge pub is definitely worth a visit. I had the pleasure of eating my lunch there. More information can be found on their website at http://www.theoldforge.co.uk/ The campsite is also of interest. The facilities are basic but adequate for the camper who cares little for home comforts! The most interesting feature is the compostable toilet - check out the photo! Any ideas as to the purpose of the hanging wellies gratefully received! Inverie tea room and pottery is another welcome sanctuary from the elements. A warm log fire and good food awaits you!

During the late 1990's, Inverie was at risk of military occupation. As a result, in 1997, the Knoydart Foundation was set up. Their aim was to preserve the beauty of Knoydart for its people. This has proved to be a success, and as a result, Inverie has maintained its prosperity as a community.

The return trip to Mallaig was most enjoyable. This took around 1.5 hours due to a visit to Tarbet to pick up and drop off passengers. Tea was served along with a good opportunity to chat. All in all, a good day's wandering and photographing was had in what is one of the most stunningly beautiful landscapes in the UK.

More information on Bruce Watt cruises can be found at http://www.knoydart-ferry.co.uk/